Grizzly quiet compressors

Three New Grizzly Compressors are Quiet and Oil Free

Grizzly Industrial is introducing a complete new line of air compressors which is starting out with the PRO® Quiet Series. These are low-decibel, low-maintenance machines that are perfect for job-sites and small shops. They are about as loud as normal conversation. Yale University has published a one-page chart that shows great examples of different levels of noise in decibels (click here).

The smallest of the three new compressors, the single stage T32335 ($199.95 as of 4/30/21) is a lightweight, 2-gallon model that pushes 3.2 CFM at 40 PSI and 2.4 CFM at 90 PSI. It weighs just 48 lbs. and measures 17” x 16” x 14” tall, so this is a perfect tool for pinning on the job-site. The motor draws 8 Amps, has a 72” plug wire, is rated at 1.5 HP, and has shielded and permanently lubricated bearings.

The single stage T32336 (289.95) is a dual-tank, 4-gallon model that weighs 60 lbs. It draws 13 Amps, has a 2 HP motor and delivers 6.2 CFM at 40 PSI and 5.6 CFM at 90 PSI. It has a 50/50 duty cycle and twin stacked tanks.

The larger T32337 ($519.95) is a 20-gallon model that delivers 7.6 CFM at 40 PSI, and 6.2 CFM at 90 PSI. This machine has a 2-1/2 HP motor and wheels for easy mobility. It draws 15 Amps, cuts in at 95 PSI and out at 125 PSI, and has a single vertical tank.

All three of the new air compressors put out a maximum of 125 PSI and all three run at just 60 decibels (dB). They feature roll-cage frames that protect the pump and motor from damage, oil-free pumps for cleaner air and lower maintenance cost, built-in tank output and pressure gauges, quick couplers, air regulators, safety valves, and easy-drain valves.

They are all covered by a one-year warranty.

Following are some brief notes on compressed air from the ‘setting up shop’ section of WoodEzine’s free woodworking tutorial…

Don’t leave the compressor plugged in, or if you do, have it on a switched outlet that you can turn off at night. A lot of woodshops have burned down because the air system had a leak that caused the compressor to run continually and overheat.

Instead of installing expensive metal compressed air lines in the shop, you could just attach a cheap, flexible hose to the ceiling with pipe clips and have it run from the compressor and drop down right above the workbench or assembly area.

Don’t plug a portable small compressor into an extension cord. Resistance can cause intermittent problems for the pump (voltage loss), and the motor will not like having to operate on half rations. It is always better to run air hose instead of electric cords. And heavy 10-gauge extension cords are not a solution, as they will be plugged into a household circuit that is wired with 12 or even 14-gauge wire.

It’s a good idea to put a permanent air filter on the compressor, and then plug the hose into that. Or you can attach a moisture/dust filter to the shop wall and then plug the compressor into it with a very short length of hose, and then plug the line into that.

Drain the compressor regularly (see the manual). If you’re in a humid part of the country, the tank can fill up quite a bit in a very short time, and even start rusting from the inside. Moisture will definitely contaminate finishes. If you’re using the compressor to spray finish, locate it in another room so that airborne volatiles don’t come in contact with the hot motor, or get sucked into the tank.

It takes a really big tank to keep up with pneumatic sanders and other tools that are used in auto-body shops, and those tools are a bit unwieldy because of the air hoses attached to them. Electric sanders and cordless drills seem to work better in a woodshop.